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2jz wasted spark

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2jz wasted spark

HI Gents I'm trying to work out WTF why e-manage won't run the timing on the 2jz properly. I've wired it up with one channel to each timing wire on the ECU in the correct firing order I've even tried a second unit to see if the unit was defective and got the same problem My Garage:- www. Direct fire can be either waste of normal spark I thought?

This doesn't mean they are run in sequential mode necessarily though I'm having issues getting my e-manage to run the ignition side of the engine. Is your e-manage compatible with the style of signal coming from the 2JZ?? Is it a hall effect, reluctor, optical etc type??

DIY coil on plug 2jzgte, 1jzgte, 2jz ge NA-T

Cheers, Owen. Waste-spark doesn't need a dual-tower coil-packs - it just means two cyls which are degrees apart in cam timing fire at the same time.

Thanks guys I really didn't get much from all that so far Both my 2jz's have 6 COP and a 6 channel ignitor. If they are, then in fact the wriing will not be correct as there are indiviudal drivers and ignitor channels for each coil, so they won't be 'hardwire' paired anywhere in the system and hence why the engine will be missing. I've seen relatively good success with e-manages on 2jz's so am not worried about this side of it.

I'll try my spare ignitor this afternoon and maybe even throw the CRO on to compare outputs.

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Will keep posted as this seems a bit of an unknown atm. Oh and SAFC can't offer 16x16 ,maps nor ignition timing. I've had problems with toyota engines talking to ECU's because of the crappy output signal they put out of their triggers.

I'd be saying that the output from the engine's sensors is not up to scratch for your ECU Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page:. Replies: 35 Last Post:AM. Replies: 14 Last Post:PM.

2jz wasted spark

Sequential or Waste spark? By Cool1 in forum Tech and Conversions. Replies: 32 Last Post:PM. Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg del.

Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA)

The time now is AM. All rights reserved.Quick links: Manuals : Megasquirt info : Forum help page : Downloads. Moderators: jsmcortinamuythaibxr. Return to MS3 General Support. See also MS3 manuals. Engine is 2jzge non vvti with vvti wheel and crank position sensor, and Gte non vvti cams with one tooth and welded in Cam position sensor. Fully sequential, Lq9 Coil packs, cc injectors and Innovative mtx-l wideband.

1JZ Coil packs cracking - Alternatives

I rechecked my wiring and everything seems okay, I am trying to fire up the car without air temperature sensor, and no coolant Just to get her running for 10 seconds, once Ill accomplish that I will put everything together I was able to only get the composite log I only got something on this log, all the other ones are empty Any ideas what should I be looking for next? I will upload the logs and pictures soon once i zip them. Thank you!

The tooth 1 angle seems very high but it depend where the crank sensor is positionned so this might be good. Are you sure that you connected spark a to cylinder 1, spark b to 5, spark c to When It comes to tooth 1 angle it is my concern as well.

Sensor is located 8 o clock, missing teeth are 2 o clock when in TDC, the first tooth being as the first tooth before two missing teeth, and I counted teeth between sensor, passed tdc to tooth right before two missing teeth clock wise.

2jz wasted spark

Sounds a little confusing, if you dont know what I mean ill draw quickly on microsoft paint Nathaninwa suggested me to run in wasted cop to check if maybe the cam sensor might be at fault, and head has been modified to have rear cam sensor, so maybe it is not reading the way it should. Ill test the car in wasted spark tonight to see if The car will atleast have spark Any other suggestions to what Should I be looking for?

Might that be a problem? Re-checked all the coils and injectors in a test mode, everything seems fine. JP1 is Jumpered on position 1 and 2, J1 Is jumpered on position 3 and 4, R52 and R56 pots are adjusted all the way counter clock wise, cam input JP7 is not jumpered and both R11 and R32 pots are adjusted counter clock wise.

Can it be a problem with my Crank position sensor? I will be testing the resistance on Crank position sensor tomorrow, maybe it is bad and thats why there is no spark? Any input is much appreciated guys, if anyone had a similar problem please give me some ideas of what could I look for next. You have a good rpm signal. The problem is related with spark or fuel or timing. Try with different tooth 1 angle something closed to 0 or swithc to 2jz vvti spark mode instead of toothed wheel and leave the trigger angle to 0.

Wasted cop setting and 2JZ vvti tooth set up? But I will defenitely try playing with this setting today. Edit: Do you understand that the red "not synced" indication is normal, it is only supposed to go green once the engine is rotating and can sync-up?

There is also an issue with full vs half-sync indicators that is covered in the release notes with latest firmware, but it doesn't sound like you are describing that specific one. Thank you Nathaninwa for all the help with settings and figuring that thing out. Now onto tuning and getting that car on track. Thanks everyone! Board index All times are UTC.What do we have hereā€¦another classic, European car, decked on air over some Corvette wheels.

My Facebook feed stays filled with plenty of coverage from my friends across the pond, and one constant that I have seen all year from Europe is that a lot of what I am seeing is bags and wheels.

Even the classic Euro scene here in the US it seems that all you need to do to achieve scene-superstar status is get an old Benz or BMW and toss it on air. While the outside is on par with what makes Euro scene kids tight in their already tight pants, popping the hood reveals an engine bay that will any motorhead firing on all cylinders. Popping the hood of this stance-tastic Volvo reveals a very healthy, single-turbo swapped 2JZ engine, and I know enough Finnish people to know that they love boost and using it every chance they get.

Why a Volvo though? Well, we have to think about demographics here. Man, the Fins, Swedes, and Norwegians sound like a cool group of people. After the old motor was removed, and before the 2JZ was installed, the bay was thoroughly gone through by Eemeli and his friends with a lot of the panels being straightened and smoothed over before the potent, Toyota straight-six was installed.

The result is a bay devoid of any clutter that would distract from the center-piece. Knowing this, Eemeli left the internals of his 2JZ transplant alone, trusting their integrity for the power he desired. This still required removing the factory twin-turbochargers in favor of a single, Holset HX40 unit, attached to the six-shooter via a stainless steel header.

Boost is regulated by a Turbosmart 50mm waste-gate and a Turbosmart Race-Port blow-off valve bleeds off any excess boost between shifts. The intake charge is routed through custom piping and chilled by a 3-core intercooler before feeding into a Greddy intake manifold. Exhaust gasses exit via a 3. Fueling the force-fed six-cylinder is a custom fuel system comprised of twin, Bosch fuel pumps, Fuel Lab filter and pressure regulator, and 6 Bosch EV14 cc injectors.

Making sure everything runs smoothly is a Mega-Squirt MS3 engine management system with a Bosch wasted-spark coil setup. Inside the car, the custom touches continue, and is more in line of what we would expect from a well-rounded Euro build.

Plenty of leather, custom stitching, and flocked parts adorn the cabin of this Swedish beast. Carbon-backed GA seats hold the driver and passenger in place, and are finished in a combination of leather and plaid, which carries into the rear. The dash has been flocked and also finished in leather, and holds a host of Autometer gauges to keep Eemeli informed of how his burnouts are affecting the engine.

As I mentioned earlier, the outside is very standard for what we see at shows across the pond.

2jz wasted spark

The exterior has been left standard-looking, with parts either being restored to, or left in factory-like condition. The car is dropped using a LowToys airbag system and allows for each bag to be controlled independently.Within a few hours your 2JZ is up and running and just waiting to be tuned by the closest tuning mastermind One of the worlds most famous engines in the tuning industry.

Can handle massive power with stock internals. There are many impressive builds out there. Installation is a breeze Within a few hours your 2JZ is up and running and just waiting to be tuned by the closest tuning mastermind Selected vehicle features Uses stock harness, easy installation The air mass meter is removed Controls idle valve, AC, tachometer and other instruments Stock lambda sensor s is replaced with the included wideband sensor.

Some features not available depending on used ECU Technical documentation. Uses a sensor directly connected to the ECU without any additional electronics. Supports Bosch LSU 4. VR or digital.

Automatic trigger level detection. The signals are processed by a completely separated processor for maximum performance and immunity against interference 2 extra temperature sensors. Can be used as switches or to control additional functions 2 extra V inputs. Can be used to control virtually anything. Fuel pumps, idle control, boost solenoids, nitrous, shift lights, fans, warning lights, etc. Three extra processors to handle the triggers, injectors and EGT Resolution on ignition: 0.

Internal wideband lambda can measure even richer fuel mixtures, below lambda 0. High impedance only 6 ignition outputs. Can be used as switches or control of additional functions 2 knock sensor inputs 6 extra V inputs. Can be adjusted to control virtually anything like fuel pumps, idle valves. GPO 2A.

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Three extra processors to handle the trigger, injectors and knock detection Resolution on ignition: 0. Uses sensor directly connected to the ECU without any additional electronics.

The signals are processed by a completely separated processor for maximum performance and immunity against interference 6 temperature sensors.Post by Brad D. Post by M. Privacy Terms. Quick links. Wasted Spark Install Discussion pertaining to positive pressure E28s. The coil is triggered by Motronic via a transistor. This is a simple and effective method to providing spark. It does however, have its limitations in a higher performance application. In a forced induction and high compression NA engine cylinder pressures are significantly elevated over that of a normally aspirated engine.

This makes it much more difficult for the ignition system to ionize the spark plug gap initiate the spark. Also, with the elevated pressure comes the problem of insufficient dwell time with a single ignition coil.

An ignition coil has to charge to be able to fire spark plug. When the transistor in the DME switches on, the coil begins to charge. To fire the coil, the transistor is switched off.

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As engine speed increases the available time to charge the coil decreases, and it is possible that the coil will not fully charge, compromising an already struggling system. The solution is typically to reduce the spark plug gap to something around 0. However sometimes this isn't even enough.

An ignition box such as an MSD unit can be installed but requires that the stock wires and distributor carry the increased voltage, which will shorten the life of the dizzy and potentially causing arcing problems with the factory wires. Another solution is to run more than one ignition coil. In this case three coils, each firing a pair of plugs. It fires the necessary plug on the compression stroke as well as its paired cylinder on the exhaust stroke "wasting" that spark.

Since there is more than one coil in the system, this gives each coil more time to charge allowing a saturated charge even at higher rpm.

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The other benefit is that the dizzy is no longer needed, removing its limitations from the system.A password reset email has been sent to the email address on file for your account, but may take several minutes to show up in your inbox. Please wait at least 10 minutes before attempting another reset. Lost your password? First Name. Last Name. Please enter your email address. You will receive a link to create a new password via email.

Email address. Registering for this site allows you to access your order status and history. We will only ask you for information necessary to make the purchase process faster and easier. This item is for the IGN1A coils by themselves.

They are available for purchase individually or in sets of 4, 6, 8 or The IGN1A coil has been gaining popularity among the racing community for their amazing ability to produce powerful spark without the need for an igniter.

These smart coils will be the last coils you ever buy. The coils work with all aftermarket ECUs once properly wired and setup. Connector and terminals are included with each coil. No more expensive and fragile aftermarket ignition boxes.

No more remanufactured OEM coils that are hit or miss. Sign in close. We've sent you an email with a link to update your password. No account yet? Create an Account Login. News Racer updates Builds. Shopping cart close. No products in the cart. My account Cart Our location Contact us. Click to enlarge Click to enlarge. Login to use Wishlist Login to use Wishlist. SKU: IP Share Facebook Twitter Google Email. This coil is a specially designed inductive style, high energy coil IGBT Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor referred to as a smart coil, as it is designed with the igniter on the coil.

These coils are flawlessly being used on 3, hp nitrous engines without CDI. This is World Class performance!Thread in ' Technical Questions ' started by TommyboyblitzMar 7, Driftworks Forum. Tommyboyblitz New Member. Joined: Dec 1, Posts: 14 Likes Received: 0.

I am using the 3x standard wasted spark coilpacks, The first lot that came with the engine were Toyota, were cracked and i bought a cheap second set of toyota ones and made 3 up out of the 6. After a lot of ignition problems i bought a set of new surefire coilpacks, the standard black and blue ones.

This cleared up some miss firing etc and run well on them, then started to get miss fires again so checked them and found they had cracked also, surefire were kind enough to replace them with a set of the red "uprated" ones.

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I started it up and sounded terrible the other day, like running on 3 cylinders, pulled the sparks and coils to find the sparks at the back of the engine all cracked, they were replaced when i changed the last set of coils 6 months ago also. Also the 3rd coil pack at the back of the engine was slightly cracked.

Changing the sparks sorted the problem and the car was running great again. Driving miles on the motor way and again started to miss fire, found that the 3rd coil pack had given up, and wasnt sparking number 1 cylinder, luckily i had one of the old good toyota ones to replace and it runs fine again.

Now, i know there are problems with these coil packs, I was thinking of using a set of the old 1g fe coils as i have loads kicking about. I am running standalone so i can run sequential instead of wasted. I have seen a build using old yaris coils and had said the car runs alot better. But my thinking is whats causing this problem in the first place. Are they simply getting to hot? What other options do i have? Andyti Active Member. Because of the placement of the coils and cheap plastic.

You can run a coil near plug setup with short leads getting the coils away from the worst of the heat. Have a look at ls2 truck coils they have built in ignitors and a heatsink on the coil to help dissipate heat. It will allow the standalone to run cooler too as the coil is doing the work.


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